Question:
Considering getting this for my Catepillar 3406E motor. Suppose to add 250 hp to motor.

Answer:

Me personally, I say its not worth buying unless you acutally need those extra horses. Also what about torque? How much do you get?
I know there is a guy that publishes an article in Landline every month, that is into the whole high performance diesels.
Steve

Answer:

They claim it will save on fuel mileage too, if it is run on the correct setting.
Plus you can have the extra horsepower for passing or those steep hills.

Answer:

So you wanna add on a Pittsburgh Power box? I'm sure there's times when the extra power will come in handy, but think about this- the transmissions and rear ends of a car are designed and rated to withstand a certain amount of torque. If you go beyond, say a 1,650 foot-pound rating on the driveline, you'll be asking for trouble and expensive repairs. What I'm saying here is be sure your car has a driveline that is rated for at least what the torque from the engine will be when you use the box.
Ask yourself this question: Is it more important to be first up the hill, or first to make a deposit at the bank since your driveline isn't torn up?

Answer:

Kapt. Chaos:
Speaking of power matching the drivetrain/load, do you feel 300HP and 860lbs of torque is enough to pull 80,000 assuming mostly flat terrain? What about 65,000 lbs?
I apogle for veering off the subject slightly.

Answer:

I remember reading an article in Landline that calculated the required HP for 80K on flat roads with a tail wind to be something like 276hp.
Mind you, it takes more to get a load rolling than to maintain momemteum.
Non-union and proud

Answer:

Originally Kapt. Chaos:
Speaking of power matching the drivetrain/load, do you feel 300HP and 860lbs of torque is enough to pull 80,000 assuming mostly flat terrain? What about 65,000 lbs?
I apogle for veering off the subject slightly.
Depending on how the car is geared, it should pull it just fine. In earlier years, the "big dogs" were running the old 220 Cummins that had no turbo, and probably a lower torqque figure than you posted, but grossed 80,000 running coast-to-coast.

Answer:

You had better not be fighting any wind!

Answer:

Will be installed this week and I will let you know the results on performance and fuel mileage!
The people at Pittsburgh Power told me that I may want to change my stock exhaust to some other kind that will get rid of the heat from the turbo better! Looking into that now, but I don't want a loud car! Checking into the QP Mufflers by Grand Rock:
Anybody got any suggestions on mufflers to get rid of heat quietly?
Next I am going to look into the "Fuel Preporator"($995) or the "FASS System"($485), which appears to be the samething except for the cost.
Stay tuned!

Answer:

Hey Dice
Keep us posted I have been looking at the power box for a while now, but have not found anyone that is using one.
Waiting for a report

Answer:

Big difference!
Mostly it has alot less turbo lag!
Charlotte to Memphis with a set of pups with 15,600 lbs cargo. Went up black mtn on 40 and the 4 wheelers were in my way! A first!
Computer has settings from 0 stock to 7 250 extra hp. I ran it in setting 3 most of the time with the only problem I encountered is the exhaust gas temp would get to 1300 degrees and cut the boost on the turbo back enough to keep the temp under 1300 degrees. So now I have got to look for some better mufflers to get rid of the turbo heat.
The fuel mileage, I could not really tell until I run a full tank through, but it appears that it may be the same if not better on the mpg if I would drive it like the user manual tells you.
So far I am very satisfied with the performance, but the fuel mileage is going to be a wait and see until I can check it!


Answer:

Had a fuel prep on my 600 cat, didnt do anything but make a buzzing sound in the CB. The manufacturer claims it might not work too well with the electronic motors, he was right.
Save your money, just my 2 cents!

Answer:

Dice, I had one of those on my 99 Volvo with a Cummins N-14 500Hp. It made a tiny bit of difference. The kind that adds up after about 2 years. The only problem, one of the seals started leaking after about 13 months, allowing it to suck air. Dont have to tell what happened to power and mpg. Called the maker, they said they would replace it for 75% of the cost of a new one. So I bought a tube silcon gasket gunk sealed it off and when aI got to home I bypassed it completly.

Answer:

the best way to get rid of turbo heat is to give the exhaust gases a larger path of flow, that is bigger than stock exhaust piping from the turbo all the way thru the muffler.
Larger piping will also allow the turbo to breathe easier b/c air flow is less restrictive, get rid of all bends, best is straight thru pipes going to a frame mounted muffler to a turned down exhaut pipe. No stand up pipes.
that set-up worked better when I used to do farm tractor pulling, looks weird though.
Non-union and proud

Answer:

Hook to a set of pups in Memphis, TN to Sacremento, CA with 26,200 lbs of cargo. Fuel mileage is about the same as the trip I made from Sacremento last week.
The big difference I see will be less wear and tear on the equipment due to alot less shifting on the hills and mountains. This is with the unit set on level 3. No matter what level you set it on above level 1, it is going to starting cutting the turbo boost back at 1300 degrees of exhaust gas temperature. But it is still more power than stock and go up hills like you are pulling empties, which several drivers hollared at me on the radio asking if I was running empty going up the hills. The hill from the AZ line up into CA, I only dropped 1 gear and still topped hill at 50 mph.
Looking at Walker Megaflow mufflers. Anybody have these?
I am very pleased with the performance!